Tips
CDeX to OGG walkthrough:
You can do one of two things with CDeX--rip files directly from CD to
ogg format (or whatever format you'd like), or re-encode your existing
mp3 files to ogg. Many people dislike the re-encoding process, because
going from one lossy format to another creates--you guessed it--more
loss. But honestly, in my own experience and in many tests, ogg is
almost as lossless as Windows Media Audio. I am quite sensitive to poor
quality music files (I can't even stand 96kbps mp3s!) but I do not notice
a difference between my mp3 files and the re-encoded oggs if I choose
my settings carefully.
When you open up CDeX, you will want to check the Settings menu to make
sure that you are using the correct encoder and settings. Make sure to
select OGG Vorbis file format from the drop-down list of encoders. You
can set the encoding bitrate from about 64-96 for the best results.
The higher the original bitrate of the mp3, the more comfortable I feel
using a lower bitrate setting for the re-encoding. I have successfully
taken some really higher bitrate mp3s to about 50kbps in ogg.
Once you have the settings as you like them, go to the Convert menu and
select "Re-encode compressed audio files." This will bring up a window
that allows you to browse to the directory your mp3s are saved to.
When you have browsed to that directory, select the files you want to
re-encode (or select all) and then click the "Convert" button. CDeX will
then do the job for you, typically saving the converted files to My
Documents/My Music/MP3.
Once you have the files encoded, you can transfer them to your device
or memory card, fire up GSPlayer (or your mp3/ogg player of choice) and
enjoy your tunes! :)
How do I create and delete shortcuts?
Connect your Pocket PC to your computer and make sure ActiveSync is running. Then click on the Explore button in the Activesync toolbar to bring up the main file browser window for your Pocket PC. You can also double-click on your My Computer icon and then My Mobile Device.
Navigate to the folder in your Pocket PC files containing the file you want to create a shortcut for. Highlight the file and then select Copy from the Edit menu, or right-click on the icon and select Copy.
Navigate to the location on your Pocket PC where you want to put the shortcut. Select Edit-->Paste or right-click and select Paste. Your shortcut will now appear within the selected folder.
To rename the shortcut, highlight the icon and select the select Rename from the File menu, or right-click on the icon and select Rename.
Where can I get music and play it?
The easiest way to download music is from a pay-per-download music service. However, many of these services have put digital rights management on their music which makes it very difficult to put the music you purchase onto your Pocket PC.
If you have purchased music from iTunes, Napster, Rhapsody or some other service, the easiest way to get around this is to burn the music to an audio CD and then use a CD ripping program to re-rip the files to non-DRM format.
You can also use a CD ripper program (such as the popular dbPowerAmp or CDex) to rip tracks from CDs you already own. If you are interested in recording live Internet radio stream for later playback, utilities like Total Recorder allow you to record an audio file of the output from your sound card.
You will need an mp3 player in order to play any mp3s you transfer to your device. Popular players include the GSPlayer, WinAMPaq, and Pocket Music. Windows Media Audio files will only play on the Windows Media Player for Pocket PC. Many mp3 players also play ogg files, which are similar to mp3s but take up far less space than the mp3 file.
Where can I get ebooks and read them?
There are some great sources for ebooks on the Internet. You can get many classics for free on sites like Project Gutenberg ( http://gutenberg.net/) or Blackmask ( http://www.blackmask.com) in various formats. You can also check out ebooks from local libraries, if the service is offered, or from sites like Knowbetter.com (http://www.knowbetter.com/).
If you are in the market for a more current release, you can purchase ebooks in many different formats from sites like Palm Digital Media/eReader ( http://www.ereader.com), Fictionwise ( http://www.fictionwise.com), Powell’s ( http://www.powells.com), Amazon (http://www.amazon.com) , Microsoft Reader ( http://www.microsoft.com/reader), and Mobipocket ( http://www.mobipocket.com).
To read ebooks, you will need an ebook reader program for your PDA. Some of the formats are reader specific—i.e. you can only read eReader/Palm Digital Media files with their proprietary reader, you can only read Microsoft Reader files with the MSReader, etc.
There are also files that are secure, meaning that you have purchased the file and can only read it by entering an unlock code and on permitted devices. Other readers, such as uBook, read many formats (HTML, text, non-secure Palm Reader and Mobipocket files, even straight from a Zip file).
Why would I connect my PPC to my mobile phone? How do I connect my PPC to my mobile phone?
Connecting your phone to your Pocket PC has many benefits. You can transfer information (phone numbers, appointment reminders, etc) to your phone without having to re-enter the information manually. If the phone has data capability, you can download your email and/or surf the web.
Bluetooth or Infrared (IR) : Most of the newer phones have one or both of these available. Additionally, virtually all PPCs have IR and many have Bluetooth. If you have both, Bluetooth is the best choice. It draws minimal battery current and does not require precise alignment to work. IR is more complicated due to the high battery drain and difficulty in precise alignment.
Data Cable : This is more complex and more expensive. You can buy cables that will connect specific PPCs to specific mobile phones. Not all PPCs and mobile phones have cables available. This is the least desirable method, due to the added cost plus the additional bulk of the cable.
For any of the above methods to work, you will also require a data service plan from your wireless provider. This may be GPRS or one of the CDMS Data services. The connectivity methods above simply allow connection of your PPC to your mobile phone, then you may use the data connection to connect your PPC to the web. To download your email to your PPC, you will need an email address with POP3 or IMAP capability to retrieve your email, and SMTP capability to send email. There are several email providers that do provide free POP3/SMTP mailboxes, as well as providers who offer POP3/SMPT access as an additional paid feature.
How Do I Setup a Home Network?
You can always call the professionals, but if you have a little time (and patience) it is likely you can make it a do it yourself project. Before you run out and start buying equipment a little planning is in order. The following steps should be followed to provide the best chance of a smooth implementation.
1). Set Goals (what features do you want/need; wireless components, wired, printer sharing?)
2). Planning (Will wiring need to be done? Is a wireless “base station” going to be integrated?)
3). Equipment Identification & Acquisition (Purchase new or eBay it?)
4). Installation (It may look good in the box, but isn’t any good to you that way.)
5). Configuration (It’s all hooked up and lights are flashing; now what?)
6). Testing (Make sure it is working BEFORE you MUST have it!)
7). Backup (Unless you want to go through steps 5 & 6 again in the future.)
Step 1: Set Goals
Determine what features you want/need as part of your network. Are all the devices to be wired together? If so, are they located in the same room or can the rooms be wired together or is wiring already in place (unlikely unless you had the home built or you are working in an office environment). Will wireless connectivity be included? It can solve the wiring difficulties, but has it’s own limitations and introduces some additional complexity.
What type of internet connectivity will this network connect into; cable modem, DSL/ADSL, leased line or dial up?
Step 2: Planning
Steps 1 and 2 run together seamlessly. Once you have answered the hypothetical questions in step 1 it is time to get out the blank paper and start drawing. Show each device to be connected (include areas where you may add items in the future) and indicate whether it will be wired or wireless. At this point it is also a good idea to decide whether the wireless is going to be WiFi or Bluetooth. Don’t forget to show your internet connection (and type) on the drawing.
Feel free to do the drawing electronically if you wish. Several word processors provide this capability or you could go with Visio or similar design type program. No points for fancy here, so it is up to you how much time you want to spend getting this done.
Step 3: Equipment Identification & Acquisition
Based on your drawing from step 2 identify actual equipment. There is a nearly endless list of manufacturers, devices and options. Use your goals to determine the correct balance of features and price. Consider combination equipment as there are fewer items to purchase and fewer items to fail later. For example, several manufacturers make combined routers/modems. Those same devices can also be wireless base stations.
I suggest sticking with one manufacturer as that way tech support is only a single call away. WiFi certified components will talk to each other even if they are made by different manufacturers, but specialty features have to be turned off and that adds complexity. If possible stick to one manufacturer.
Buying new ensures warranty and support, but can also cost more. If it has ever been available via retail, then you can also find one (or more) on eBay or similar auction sites. Buyer beware if you take that route and remember that although it will likely save you money, you will probably have to assemble the network pieces through several auctions as opposed to one order from a retailer.
When placing your orders don’t neglect accessories. Cables may or may not be provided, so always ask. There isn’t much worse than getting everything on site and then discovering you can’t connect the PC to the router because neither had a cable included.
Step 4: Installation
If you purchased new then follow manufacturer’s instructions or quick start/setup guides. If you purchased used and instructions are not available consult the manufacturer’s web site. Most major manufacturers have their manuals available on line. Plug in power LAST after everything else has been readied. Many of the connections you will be making need to be done powered off. When in doubt refer to instructions.
Another hard learned lesson is that software drivers often need to be installed PRIOR to connecting equipment. If that is the case the instructions will specify it in the steps. Fair warning, read first, install second.
Step 5: Configuration
One of the biggest decisions to make here is whether to use DHCP (Dynamic Host Configuration Protocol). Basically DHCP allows you to configure one device with all the required internet settings. Things like what IP address range is valid on your network, what IP address is the gateway to the internet, what IP address are your DNS (Domain Name Servers – computers that translate names to IP addresses) servers and so on. By having a single device “hand out” this information each time a client (PC, PPC, etc) logs onto the network you save yourself the time of having to manually configure (and keep track of) each client.
Once a device (usually an access point, router/gateway will serve this function, though a server can also handle the responsibility) has be configured to provide DHCP information all other clients can simply be set to accept DHCP for this network. The configuration overhead is limited to the single device which then manages all other devices.
If you do not have a DHCP capable device or you decide not to utilize it, then each device attached to the network will have to be configured individually. You will also need to keep track of which IP addresses you have given out to each device since no two devices can share an IP address on the same network.
Regardless of your decision on DHCP, you will need to decide upon an IP address range. Most device manufacturers will suggest a range for your internal network. In most cases this will be a number such as 192.168.xxx.xxx or 10.xxx.xxx.xxx. In fact there are three total ranges that can be used as “private” ranges. They are 10.0.0.0 thru 10.255.255.255, 172.16.0.0 thru 172.31.255.255 and 192.168.0.0 thru 192.168.255.255. In my experience I have always seen the 10.xxx.xxx.xxx or the 192.168.xxx.xxx. However, I cannot explain why I have not seen the 172.xxx.xxx.xxx range.
You can get as sophisticated with your numbering scheme as you wish, but always remember, each device must have a unique number or your network will not function properly.
Step 6: Testing
Once everything is setup and configured it is time to test the network. You can do this in virtually any way you wish. I will however, provide one suggested method; feel free to follow it or your own. At the end of this step you just need to know that everything is working as expected.
Start with the internet gateway and make sure that your link to the internet is available. In most cases this is as simple as observing the color and/or status of your link light on the device. It may also involve the color and/or status of a light(s) on your modem (cable, DSL, etc).
Once the internet connection has been established, move to your primary PC (or server if applicable). Using the PING function (DOS/Command Prompt Mode) or equivalent Windows utility ensure connectivity between this primary PC and your gateway. Next using the same tool, attempt to PING a named internet address. This will do two things; first if the name is resolved to an IP address you now know that your DNS server is able to be reached. Second, if the PING is successful you know that your internet connectivity and gateway settings are correct.
Follow a similar procedure using the PING function on all remaining PCs. PPCs should follow the same basic process if they are WiFi enabled or are connected to the internet in some other fashion, such as Bluetooth or USB to a PC. On my WiFi enabled PPC the software for my WiFi card provides a Windows based utility that emulates the PING command.
Connect any remaining devices such as printers, faxes, etc. and make sure that you can print to them from each PC or PPC that you need to. If they are shared off of a single PC then you will need to setup sharing on that PC prior to connecting from any other PCs. If the printer/fax has it’s own Ethernet connection then you can skip the sharing step.
Step 7: Backup
Congratulations on getting a functional network up and running. Before you go running off to celebrate, take a few more minutes to ensure you don’t have to repeat yourself in the near future. All those configuration settings that you just entered (once or many times depending on the DHCP selection) need to be backed up in the event you have equipment failure, power failure or some other incident that wipes out equipment or equipment memory.
PCs can be backed up using standard Windows software. Though if the PC is setup for DHCP there isn’t anything really worth backing up. It is a one click configuration (almost), so you’ll spend more time backing up than you would doing the configuration again. That doesn’t speak to the data you have on that PC, so don’t take this as a suggestion to avoid normal backup maintenance. That is just outside the scope of this paper.
Gateway/routers can usually be connected to via your network and any internet browser. Refer to documentation for the correct procedure for logging into your device. Once logged you will usually have a backup configuration option, select that and backup the device to your PC or removable media on your PC.
Label and store your backups in a safe place. Lastly, remember that if you change your configuration(s) you also need to update your backups.
Congratulations again. Now go enjoy your new network!
|
